I need advice on how to negotiate a bill that I received from my insurance. I had a neck and upper shoulder pain for more than a week and I went to a specialist. He did some routine range of motion checks and just advised to avoid the gym and use a heat pack. Now I see I've got a bill where Aetna was billed $1155 for the office visit and my bill is $375.76 which is around 30%. This seems like a very high charge for a 10 minute routine appointment. Is there any way I can either ask for a reduction on what Aetna was billed or what they charged me? The latter seems less likely since I haven't hit my deductible yet Edit: This is NY state and the appointment was at NYU Langone

I got involved with them on my 18th birthday, which was in November. I left at the end of December and told them I was moving to Houston. I got the life insurance policy when I joined since it was required, and I canceled it yesterday. Today, I got a call from the agent who recruited me. I told him I couldn't talk, but he said the contract required me to keep the life insurance policy for 17 months. I hung up, blocked him, and called my cousin since he also joined at the beginning of 2024 (recruited by the same person) and left shortly after. He canceled his policy as well. I told him about the call, and he said the agent called him too when he canceled his policy, telling him the same thing. He told the agent he didn't want it, and the agent said he would be sent to collections or something like that. I don't know if that's true but I don't know what to do.

Hi guys. I just needed help on getting my '90+ day' delinquent mark removed. I had a 3k loan that I completely forgot about during covid since it has been paused and one day woke up learning that my loan was transferred to edfinancial in Jan and that my credit dropped by a 100+ points as of 2 days ago. I got zero warnings, no 30 day or 60 day notification. My credit report says that this is the only missed payment. I own a home and car so I'm not desperate to fix my credit but feel like it's unfair for me to ruin my credit for a simple miscommunication. I called Edfinancial and they are not budging. I got the same agent twice on two different days lol. I guess they got their money and don't want to deal with me any longer. My question is can I dispute this with the 3 main credit bureaus? I'm not even sure how to even word the dispute as I'm so confused.

I (23, F) had my first pap smear this year and during the exam, the doctor ordered I have labs done as well. He collected my sample, but now I have a bill in the mail because the lab did testing. I am just so confused because I thought this would be covered since it’s part of my preventive annual exam. I am not sure what to do, should I call insurance or the lab who did the testing? Do I call the doctors office? Do I call insurance and ask to appeal? This is my first time navigating this and I’m not quite sure what to do.

This is not a rant, just a breakdown of some shady payment manipulation Citi, and perhaps other banks, are pulling with their system. I caught them trying to sneak interest charges on me and got gaslit by their customer support when I called them out. I used Citi Flex Pay, which is a low interest installment plan that lets you break up large purchases. My last statement balance was \~$1800, with \~$1200 of that being on the Flex plan. This means that my actual non-flex purchases were only \~$550, so to avoid interest, I just needed to pay that amount plus my current Flex installment (which came out to $749.15 total). Here is where they tried to screw me over: Instead of giving me the actual amount needed to avoid interest, they suggested I pay $578.67, labeled as "Remaining Adjusted New Balance + Flex Plan Monthly Payment." Looks reasonable, right? Wrong. That number doesn't actually clear all of my non-Flex charges. It leaves about $200 unpaid, which rolls over and starts accruing interest, exactly what I was trying to avoid. After double checking my math, I called support to see if I was doing the math wrong. This is where they straight-up lied to me. The rep swore up and down that $578.67 would cover everything except future Flex payments (it doesn't). He told me I must have done my math wrong (I didn't). He said I must not have read my statement correctly (I did). When I told him (verbatim), "If I pulled shit like this with a client, I would be fired," he doubled down. Then he offered to take my payment over the phone, as if I would trust them at this point. I just said goodbye and hung up. This is no mistake: Citi is intentionally misleading customers to trick them into paying just slightly less than what's actually needed to avoid interest. If I had not checked the numbers, I would have unknowingly left a balance that would have started accruing interest. They know most people won't do the math and will just trust the suggested payment amount. **This is how banks squeeze money out of people who think they are paying their balance in full.** The takeaway from this: If you use Citi Flex Pay (or any structured payment plan), do your own math. Don't just trust their suggested payment. To avoid interest, you must pay: (Non-Flex Portion of your last statement) + (This month's Flex installment). If you are unsure, manually check your statement and confirm where every charge is coming from. If Citi (or any other bank) tells you a different number, ask them to put it in writing. (Spoiler alert: they won’t, because they know they’re misleading you). The only way to avoid getting screwed is to double-check their math and never assume they have your best interest in mind. I’m sharing this because most people assume their bank is doing the right calculations for them, but they’re not. If you have a Citi Costco Visa or any card with Flex Pay, always verify before paying.

Hi Last month I bought an older truck after having it 2 days it stolen from in front of my apartment in SE Portland OR. I filed a cliem, the car was recovered, YAY! Not so fast. The adjustor decided the car was not worth repair. Progressive called the leinholder and they decided to total the car. As a person that used to be a mechanic I wanted the car because I could fix it for less than 1500. When I called the lender I was told, "it is better for me and better for you". The lender is wanting me to pay the difference between the orig loan amount and what insurance pays. My position is, the lender take what is offered, apply it to the balance and I continue to make the payments. He will get his money, I'll get the car and we are both happy. The issue is, I didnt have the chance to explain that to the lender (buy here pay here lot) the decision to total the car was made without speaking to me about it. What are my rights?

Hey Team, if I get 'ghosted' by an adjuster how would one find their manager's contact information so I can send them an email? This is for Travelers in the Mid-Atlantic Region USA. Still haven't gotten any reimbursement for my personal property after a fire... and several attempts to contact them.

I want to rollover my Fidelity Traditional IRA to my current 401k plan at TRP. TRP requires that incoming rollovers be done via a letter & and check made out to and mailed to me, that I must then mail to TRP. When I called Fidelity to request the check and letter, the rep I spoke to was frankly, shocked, and highly discouraged doing rollover via check and recommended I ask TRP to do a direct rollover instead. (I did, and they said no.) I am so frustrated that TRP is so outdated, and to be honest, the Fidelity rep’s reaction has made me nervous that something will go wrong. She sounded like they never do it this way anymore, and had to transfer me several times to get to someone who could confirm that they could even write a check & letter according to the specifications from TRP, and said that the request was very unusual. These people handle rollovers every day- is TRP the only one that does it this way? I much prefer Fidelity, and the only reason I want to do this is to open up the option to make backdoor Roth contributions in the future. (The traditional IRA only exists because I rolled over my prior employer plan to it years ago before I knew what I was doing). That being said, I currently am not yet at the income limit for Roth IRA contributions, but I expect (hope) to be there in 5-10 years. I wanted to roll over now to get it over with & because I know not all plans allow an IRA to 401k (reverse) rollover, and I don’t know if I’ll be with the same company when it comes time for me to begin backdoor Roth. Am I overthinking it in either direction? Should I just suck it up and do the indirect rollover (and not sleep for weeks until I see the funds cleared)? Or am I thinking way too far ahead about backdoor Roth and should just leave things as they are? (Or just complain in solidarity with me that TRP is super annoying and out of date with their rollover process - has anyone else experienced this?) Edit: I have been informed in the comments that if the check is made out to “TRP FBO my name” it is considered a direct rollover, which is great.

I was following up with Humana dental for a denial of a filling of $482 The filling was on a tooth that had a partial crown that fell off and had to be recemented. Their policy now is if you have a tooth with any type of crown; full, partial, or onlay, no matter how old, they will not cover a filling in the same tooth.

I purchased private health insurance through an agent with Freedom Life Insurance. I'm starting my own business so have to handle my own insurance. I got a Freedom plan that is supposed to give me 4 free doctors visits before deductibles/copays kick in, and somehow I'm paying more than my insurance every time. They only pay $100 per visit. I am livid that I'm spending almost $400/month for a policy that doesn't seem to pay anything!! What is the deal with this?? They only pay $100, the rest is on me. This is directly different than what I was told it would be, and there's no way for me to know what I'm going to be paying unless I get a full bill breakdown from each doctor beforehand which I have never in my life had to do. The plan is a United plan, yet my agent said these major doctors don't have a good contracted rate with United. HOW? United is universally accepted. Should I have my agent find me a different plan? Go back to Marketplace where they switch your plan every year? Where the heck does a person go to get health insurance that isn't rocket science, actually covers what it says it will cover, and doesn't change all the time? Does the plan I'm on even sound normal?