I was rear-ended on the freeway (not merging, just came to a stop in traffic and the guy behind me... didn't stop). We exchanged info, I got an estimate from a bodyshop, he opened a claim with his insurance (a Progressive subsidiary). I also alerted my insurance that there had been an accident but did not open a claim. Now I got a message from Progressive asking me to answer questions about the accident. I know them asking for an account of the accident or even coming out to see my car is standard - but they require me to agree to arbitration and a bunch of other terms before even seeing what the questions are. I have no confirmation that the other driver filed the claim assuming fault for the accident so agreeing to all of Progressive's terms seems wrong before having more information. I would be fine emailing photos, my info, and an account of the accident to an agent but the other driver says he doesn't have the info of the agent assigned to the claim. Is it all automated to the point where there is no person that I can communicate with outside of this form?

Oh where to begin. I filed a claim on progressive app on Monday got rental sorted and repair rep as they call them goes to body shop and spends four hours only to argue with body shop they feel the rear door is “repairable” when this is hardest hit part of my claim and literally metal chunks missing out of door but they’re agreeing to replace only passenger side door. Any one have similar issue with progressive ? If so how did you handle escalation. I basically got into it with the repair rep when he called me to say they’re only going to pay for one door to be replaced and that worst damaged door would be repaired. I’m like how do you repair something that is completely busted. Not to mention the rep had audacity to ask my body shop to remove the opposite side door so he could compare. Is this normal pushback bs progressive does on this situation? Or am I just this lucky to get a complete jackass of an adjusted Thoughts and advice welcome!

I see a lot of hate on this device. Much of it is deserved, but I think the biggest issue is that most people are using the app and not the plug-in device. I’ve had my current one for three months and have a perfect score. I used it on another vehicle and got 30% off my premium. It’s not a “scam” as many call it, well not precisely. Progressive does want you to fail. If you live in the middle of a large city and you drive in rush hour traffic every day – I would not recommend getting it. Find cheaper insurance. Again, NO ONE should EVER use the snapshot app. It monitors EVERYTHING. Please don’t use it. The plug-in device ONLY monitors how hard you brake, how fast you take off (press the gas) and time of day. There’s no gps on the device. It doesn’t know if you’re speeding or if you’re using your phone. Here are tricks that work for me: 1) You have to pretend like you’re driving on ICE. Pretend the road is covered in black ice the whole time and drive accordingly. It’s anxiety-inducing, but it actually works. 2) Every single move you make with your car needs to be endlessly thought out: your route, all the stoplights on your route, traffic, times of day. 3) You have to stay far behind cars. Watch every car in front of you like a hawk. You basically have to look at each car as if it’s going to pull in front of you or brake hard. Expect it. 4) You need to take the back roads. If that’s going to delay you, leave early. 5) One of the riskiest parts are stop lights. That’s why you try to avoid all major roads. 6) Don’t drive late at night. Take an Uber. If your job is 3rd shift, don’t use the device. 7) Use another vehicle if you have one and use the snapshot vehicle twice a week to go somewhere near home or somewhere easy to get to. 8) Buy a “this car is monitored by GPS” or “student driver” magnet or sticker so that you get less road rage from people. This is what’s helped me. Hope it helps you. Remember: THE ROAD IS ICE. Make it into a game if you have to.

I’m moving from Oregon to Los Angeles & my wage is still quite low, but the move is justified because I should go up in salary much quicker in due time. I have to change my car insurance over & my rate with Progressive will go from $133 for comprehensive to about $400. What insurance do I really need in the event of an accident & how can I lower this cost as low as possible? Anyone have really cheap rates with other companies? Car is a 2015 Nissan Altima.

In New Jersey here. I’ve just been having awful luck with my car the last few years and I’m trying to figure out how to proceed. My driving history abstract pulled 1/2025: December 2021 - ticket obstructing passage of other vehicle March 2022 - fender bender - at fault but not shown on my abstract. insurance paid October 2022- My leased 2019 Jeep Cherokee was totaled in a hit and run accident. Not at fault. Insurance paid May 2023 - a Tesla and My new Kia sportage (financed in 1/2023) collide while both Backing out of opposite parking spaces. not shown on my abstract. Insurance paid November 2023 - got out of my Kia sportage, wasn’t in park and rolled away from me and hit a garage wall. Insurance paid. progressive sends nonrenewal notice. January 2024 I can’t find any insurance coverage for less than $1000 a month. So I give up, unregister it, leave it uninsured just and put the car in the garage. It’s been 15 months without a car. I still can’t afford to insure it. My sister and I decided we would trade cars. I would take her 2015 Chrysler 200 since it’s paid off and see if I can get cheaper insurance. Then she could register and insure my sportage under her name and use it for herself. we’d prefer not to refinance it in her name because we’re going to split the finance payment. My portion would be like paying her for the Chrysler. So that’s our plan but She has NJM and they’re saying they can’t insure the sportage if she’s not on the loan. Is this possible? Also any insights the situation as a whole and what to do to proceed? I really need to get back on the road. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Let me preface this by saying I might totally be in the wrong here. I hit a deer a few weeks ago, messed my car up pretty bad. It’s a 2017 Mercedes C300. The hood, bumper, grill, and right headlight assembly need to be replaced. Right fender can probably just be repaired. Regardless, estimate of the damages came out to about $7,700. I was SURE this would total the car, as I knew that my car was only worth $9-$10k. I had been trying to sell/trade it for the past year. It has 110,052 miles on it, cosmetic damages, coolant leak in the heater core, needs a new purge valve, etc. I have had four different dealerships tell me that it’s worth no more than $10k, and two offered me $5k to buy outright, other two offered $7,600 which is what carmax values it at. MERCEDES told me the car was not worth putting $8k worth of damage into and would give me $5k for it. Progressive tried to tell me it was worth $16,475. This number is based on what dealerships SELL my car for on average. My question is… if the car were to be totaled, they would NOT give me $16k for it, because that’s not what it’s worth. So how can they value the car at that price? It’s also a hypothetical number with dealership markups. They never sent anyone out to look at my car, they never asked about previous damage, NOTHING. The guy kept blowing me off and stated that they won’t run the value unless it’s totaled and flagged and we had not gotten to that point. Is this even legal?? I’m supposed to have the estimator call me tomorrow, but as far as I’m concerned, all he did was plug my vin into Mitchell Connect and say that it would sell for this so that’s what it’s worth. Should I fight harder? Everyone I’ve spoken to has told me to.

I totaled my car and I was on fault even tho the other driver actually was also speeding, but after that Progressive told me they are only covering liability and not giving any money for my car since I was driving for work purposes, (I do patients visits, which for still counts as a commute). They argue that I did not specify that I used my car for "work" which in their policy options that options doesn't exist, and this is not tagged as for business purposes. I want to know if is there legal advisor or way to fight against it in Ohio EDIT EXTRA My policy only asks what the primary use of my car and it only gives to pick up one option. Doing visits is not even the 30% use of my car The primary use of my car is actually personal use and commute to my office, I only do in person visits usually 2 a day, but not every days of the week as I do also online visits.

I brought my 2022 Low Rider ST (model FXLRST) down to Florida for Daytona bike week, and unfortunately I was hit by a Ford E450 and my bike was totaled. When progressive calculated the motorcycle’s value they used JD Power and with “standard” equipment they said my motorcycle is worth $16,040. However, if I were to select “options” I’m able to select all standard equipment that isn’t optional and it increases my motorcycle’s value to ~$18,300. That’s a significant difference. The “optional” equipment in question are things like a full fairing, oil cooler, cruise control, high performance exhaust, security alarm, saddle bags, and a standard suspension. All those aforementioned features come on the bike straight from factory and are in fact not optional at all. They are as standard as A/C and AM/FM radio in any modern car. The bike just comes with that stuff and that price of those things are factored into the MSRP. This is completely separate from my accessory coverage to cover things like a custom seat, better headlamp, new foot pegs, flat out crash bar, etc… those are all aftermarket and wouldn’t count towards the base price. I’m aware of the difference and am not talking about those items. I’ve forwarded my bill of sale to show that none of those features were options that were installed at the time of purchase and any field adjuster could with the help of a service professional could identify every feature on the bike. So why is Progressive so confused? Where is the disconnect?

Long story short. February 12th, Progressive sent me an email saying if I don’t pay the minimum that on the 28th they would cancel my insurance BUT on February 14, they sent an email saying that they had already canceled my policy on the 3rd… They still want me to pay a full month’s bill for insurance I had for only 2 days. HECK NO. I had been fighting a case to get money back for a certain reason & they assured me that everything would work out. Apparently whoever was looking into my case, denied it (okay fine… sure) & then for some bizarre reason took it upon themselves to believe that because it was denied I wouldn’t want insurance anymore? So they canceled it themselves. Yes, I was on the phone with them about 3hrs. They all said there’s nothing that can be done but that an agent shouldn’t have the power to cancel one’s policy. If I don’t pay, it goes to collections. So why did he? How do I fight this? Please help. Thank you in advance <3

Hi there I’m a new driver 18 licensed this year and I’m on my own progressive plan I don’t have a parent/guardian to join their plan I drive a 2018 Nissan versa with two previous owners to me and I’m currently paying 725 a month which isn’t really reasonable tbh that’s as much as rent is with a roommate lmao and I was wondering if anyone had any tips to receive a cheaper rate or a different company I should try I tried aaa and they said since I haven’t been driving for 6 months there’s not other options besides progressive but I cannot afford to pay that every month on top of bills :/ but I can’t not have a car when this city has horrible public transportation