Here is my scenario: My mother owns a car that she would like to have my daughter drive for school high school. The car had been parked and was on a non-op status, and the car insurance was canceled. The car has been re-registered and is ready to go once we have the insurance question settled. My mother does not drive anymore and did not renew her drivers license the last time it came up for renewal. We called the insurance company to reactivate her policy, Direct Insurance, and were told that she cannot get a policy because she does not have a valid drivers license. After doing some research, I think these are my options, and I want to get some feedback: 1. Find a company that will write a policy where the owner of the vehicle is not licensed. Does anyone know of a company that does this? 2. My mother has a living trust that many of her assets are in, but not her car. Would it make sense to transfer the car into the trust, or am I still faced with exact the same problem? The final solution is for me to simply buy my mother‘s car. We are both a little hesitant to do this because my brother also drives it on occasion and she wants to make sure that it is still available for him. If I purchased it, I would still make sure it is available to him, but now I would need to make sure that my brother was on the insurance as an occasional driver. I suspect this will end up being the simplest course of action, but I wanted to make sure that there wasn’t something else I am overlooking. TIA! Edit: the car would be insured in California.

So Lemonade had me take some house photographs and asked some questions as we’re approaching the first renewal of our home insurance. Separately, we had some hail storms and our roof got beat up. I had a roofer take a look and he said the roof is a bit old (the pictures he took supported that) and it has impact damage. Well as I’m researching my options, Lemonade says they are dropping us because we have a tree that is close to the house, it’s a small one, and our sewer line is cast iron under the house. Since the hail damage occurred under the Lemonade insurance, is it worth trying to file a claim before they drop me? Will it make it harder for me to find insurance? I imagine a damaged roof is harder to insure than a new one but I’m not sure

The accident occurred on 3/20 and was told they’re taking 100% fault. It all happened so fast, but I was on my way to work in the morning driving 45 in a 45 (it’s also dark and raining). I’m coming up to a 2-way crossroad where the guy’s road had a stop sign and mine didn’t. When I got close to the crossroad I see that he’s rolling up to the stop sign and I assume he’s stopping..because there’s a stop sign. Instead, he keeps rolling into the middle of the lane where I proceed to slam on my brakes and instinctively veer to the left to avoid him but I end up completely smashing the side of his car at 45 mph. I ended up missing that Thursday and Friday and returned to work on Monday since I was told I wouldn’t have to do much work. He ended up not even having a scratch while I have to go to the ER because I was so rattled and didn’t really know the extent of my injuries besides not being able to hear out of my left ear due to it ringing and sounding really muffled. I get a CT scan at the ER and was told that they couldn’t find anything major, so they sent me home with some muscle relaxers and a note for “light work no lifting” for work. A couple days later, I started feeling the extent of my injuries. Taking a deep breath, laughing, coughing, anything that expanded my rib cage or moved/put any pressure on my shoulder blade hurt really bad. My neck was stiff from the whiplash and I could crack my neck in ways I never had. My ear was still muffled with loud ringing and was very disorienting. This affected my sleep, work, daily activities like driving, working out, or even cleaning my apartment. It has been a week and a half since the accident and I’m still feeling all that pain. Albeit, not as significant and alarming as last week, but I still have a muffled left ear with some ringing, pain when my chest expands, shoulder blade pain, anxiety whenever I drive(which is a huge part of my job), sleeping issues, and as silly as this sounds, has destroyed my happiness. I got engaged the weekend before the accident and wanted the celebrate with friends the weekend after, but I wasn’t even able to leave our apartment to celebrate because of how much pain I was in. His insurance has offered me $2,500 for pain and suffering but I feel like that’s a slap in the face. I explained my situation to an attorney and he said it looks like they can make a decent case but said he couldn’t give me a number on how much he thought the case would be worth. So my questions are, can someone give me a ballpark estimate on how much I should negotiate for? & Do I need an attorney involved or is this a situation where I should fight the claim and negotiate myself? TL;DR I got in a high speed accident and his insurance is accepting 100% fault. I got out lucky but am still experiencing injuries like whiplash, some bruised ribs, shoulder blade pain, and muffled hearing. His insurance offered $2,500 and I don’t believe that’s enough for what I’ve gone through. How much could I counter offer for and should I get an attorney involved? Edit: I apologize, I did end up going to a primary care doctor last Friday but he told me the pain I experienced is common and went over the CT scan that the ER did and said “everything looks fine here”. I have an ear, nose, mouth appointment this Friday. Edit 2: I’m sorry if these seem like stupid questions, I’m just really young and don’t have any help outside of my mother.

Hello, I was involved in an accident and I’m currently waiting to be reimbursed by the insurance of the person who hit my car (the 3p insurance). However their policy limit doesn’t cover how much my car is worth. I am trying to retain the car as salvaged because it is my only source of transportation. The 3p insurance is sending the lienholder $15,000 (customer’s policy limit) but the remaining balance is mine to cover ($6,380). However my lienholder says they won’t send the letter of guarantee to the insurance until the remaining balance is covered ($6,380) meaning the 3p insurance cannot send the $15,000. I have gap insurance and I expected them to cover the remaining balance but they said they won’t pay until the $15,000 is sent from the 3p insurance and they see the letter of guarantee. Does anyone know if there is a workaround where I keep the vehicle having to pay ($6,380) out of pocket? Please let me know. Thanks!

In two months, my husband and I are moving states and I will be 22 weeks pregnant. I am a teacher thus I will not start until August. Lapsing and insurance is stressing me out and giving me a lot of anxiety that I don’t need for the first trimester Please share any and all advice/ a step by step on what we should do in terms of health insurance, finding an OB, etc. currently on BCBS Florida blue through the school system, I work in.

Sorry everyone this is a long one and I don’t have a good way to TLDR it. Just for a quick note, I have USAA for auto insurance and my vehicle is a 2017 Corvette Z06 in 3LZ trim, Z07 package, and 52k miles. I own the car outright and it is titled/registered in NH. So a little while ago I was driving in heavy rain, hydroplaned, lost control, hit another car in a few places not too hard, and slid into the median. The cosmetic damage is pretty bad. A few body panels and aerodynamic parts of the car were damaged and will need to be completely replaced, as you can’t repair fiberglass/carbon fiber. I estimated myself that the cosmetic damage alone would cost $25-$30k (take that for what it is, I’m not expert lol). I had a chance to look under the car and nothing looked terrible - only thing of concern was a rear wheel that was canted slightly outwards. I towed it to a shop and they’ve found no frame damage; they’re saying it’s completely repairable. USAA got an adjuster to do an estimate on the repairs and it came out to almost $32k without having taken apart the vehicle. Their estimate also included a substantial amount of work being done on the rear suspension, if needed, which is probably the only mechanical part of the car which would’ve been damaged. Their Actual Cash Value (ACV) for the car came out to be almost $61k at the time, and since the repairs were estimated to be over 50% of the ACV, they deemed it a total loss immediately. But I knew that ACV was wrong, because no low ballers, I know what I got. In all seriousness, their report included the methodology for calculating the ACV - they compare my car to two similar cars for sale in the area. However they made a mistake and compared my car to two base model Corvettes which, brand new, went for anywhere from $30k-$45k cheaper at MSRP. They also left out very valuable features my car had as OEM equipment like the carbon ceramic brakes which go for about $16k brand new. Obviously I know I’m not getting full value for these things, I’m just saying they certainly add value. Anyway, they admitted their mistake in comparing my car to two non-comparable vehicles and redid the calculation. The new ACV is almost $87k now. Now, I know a lot of you if not all of you will say take the money and run, but this is a dream car for me - it’s spec’d perfectly and I’ve done a lot of work on this car all by myself, so it has a lot of meaning for me. I could take the owner retainment settlement option and receive $48k, repair the car myself, and pocket extra money (because I know these repairs wouldn’t cost more than $48k), but they would issue a salvage title, and I couldn’t do that because I’d still want full coverage on the car. But even with this new (and correct) ACV, USAA refuses to not call this car a total loss. Repairs would have to exceed $43k to be over 50% ACV and, by their own definition, be a total loss. Additionally, in the state of NH, generally when a vehicle is involved in a collision the damages need to exceed 75% of the ACV to be deemed a total loss. This is what USAA has recently sent me as I’m still fighting them to get the repairs done, “I can understand your point, however there was no mistake in deeming the vehicle a total loss at start, you were interested in more value in the settlement. The fact that the added value was reviewed doesn't remove it from a total loss stance. We still report it to the State as a total loss, the features and conditions that were modified as a courtesy increased the value here.” So my question is, can they do this? Still deem it a total loss even though from the start their calculation of the ACV was incorrect? I disagreed the car was a total loss from the very beginning, I wasn’t looking to get more money from the settlement, I just wanted to ACV to be correct. I’m not even looking to pocket any money from this, I just want my car fixed.

My friend in Texas lost her job a year ago and has been on BCBS healthcare through the market place. She suffers from a severely resistant rheumatoid arthritis and her biologics also caused her serious side effects of gut dysmotility and weak immune system. Just yesterday, she told me that she lost all access to her PCP , gasteroenterologist, orthopedic surgeon and psychiatrist, all of which are part of Southwestern Texas Health resources that have been battling withy BCBS over the contracts and stuff. She is applying for jobs left and right but we know how bad job markets are right now. What on earth is she supposed to do? All the doctors she has been seeing are out of network in other available health care plans.

I purchased a brand-new 2023 Porsche Macan S for $82,000. After taxes, the total came to $86,000. I also purchased all available extended warranties and protection plans through Porsche, covering the engine, transmission, wheel/tire protection, paint/weather discoloration, etc., bringing the total investment to approximately $102,000. As of 2025, the car has only 14,000 miles, mostly from commuting to and from work. The vehicle was in excellent condition with no engine damage. Recently, I was involved in a collision accident, and the fault was determined to be entirely on the other party. Unfortunately, my insurance company has declared the car a total loss because the repair cost is around $40,000, and the vehicle would receive a salvage title, thereby reducing its market value significantly. My insurer has offered me $72,000 as the settlement. This situation leaves me $30,000 short of what I initially paid, even without factoring in the warranty and extras. 🟦 1. Can I still negotiate with the insurance company after they totaled my car? 🟦 2. Should I buy back the totaled car and fix it? 🟦 3. I had 5-year warranties — if the car is totaled after 2 years, will I get refunded for the remaining 3 years? Thank you to anyone who sees this message and replies back.

I have auto through the lizard. Long story, so I apologize in advance. In May, I bought a new car, and wanted to add my husband and the new car so we would all be on one policy. I didn’t know that I wasn’t supposed to cancel my policy and make a new one, but that’s what ended up happening. I called them and asked if they could reinstate my old policy and add the 2. A supervisor got the approval to do it and transferred me to a lady in a department I’m not sure of. That lady told me I should keep the new policy because it is cheaper. I asked if both policies were exactly the same. She went line by line and confirmed they both had the same coverage. I asked why the new policy was cheaper if they were exactly the same. She told a story about how each policy is owned by different companies and they set their own rules of how they want to handle it. I said, well if you’re saying they’re exactly the same, I guess I’ll keep the new one then but only because you confirmed they were the same coverage. She was typing the whole time and said she was writing the notes in an email. Fast forward to July, the first car (not the new one) got struck by lightning and I tried to file a claim. They told me I didn’t have comprehensive or collision and refused to help. I tried having supervisors try to locate the recording of the phone call with that lady, or find an email or transcript that showed the full conversation. They are saying it doesn’t exist, and there is no recording of it at all. If they could find it, they could retroactively fix the comprehensive and I could continue with the claim. Supervisors also have said that manager level and above calls don’t get recorded. Is there anything I can do at this point? I know they record everything, but they are saying it doesn’t exist. I don’t know what else I can do.

I’m in New York State, I had GEICO and I made a payment on the due date(yesterday) but noticed they didn’t want the full payment amount that I normally pay but a smaller payment(I assumed for a new car that I added on). Long story short, I gave them a call and they cancelled my policy because they said they sent a letter regarding a rate change, which I haven’t received. I live in a rural area and we have to physically pick up the mail from the post office, it looks like the mail was returned to the GEICO. They put in request to underwriting to see if they’ll reinstate the policy. What are the chances they do? Do they normally reinstate policies? Policy lapsed for only 1 day.