My husband and I are currently in the process of selling our home. The new owners are using a USDA loan. The first 4 weeks of the closing process were a breeze. Our home passed appraisal and we were told the buyers got their loan approval. The issues started last Thursday. We were supposed to close this past Friday, however I received a phone call from our realtor explaining that the buyers had not been notified that the needed to submit a copy of their W2. They had to go out on a Thursday night to H&R Block to get this final copy. Everything was submitted to USDA on Friday and we were told by the Title office that we were going to close today. It is now Tuesday and after a stressful weekend, we thought we were going to close today. I received an email from our realtor stating that the USDA system is down and we are having to extend closing once again , but this time they are not setting a date because it is unknown when that system will be back up and running. The title office claims that as soon as we get the approval, we will close but I am starting to get VERY frustrated that we are being lied to. Has anything like this happened to anyone??

I had a great experience with Nationwide for my previous dog, who had epilepsy and developed a lot of complications. We hit our plan’s annual limit halfway through the year, every year — and they paid out thousands without much hassle. Genuinely smooth process. So naturally, when I got my new puppy (Alfie), I went back to get a quote. But they quoted me over $200/month. I’m guessing it’s because of my history of high claims, even though this is a totally new dog and policy. I ended up going with Lemonade (for wellness/preventative) and Trupanion (for emergencies/accidents), and I’m paying less than $100 total per month. Just wanted to share in case others are running into similar pricing surprises with Nationwide. Happy to answer questions about my setup!

Sorry everyone this is a long one and I don’t have a good way to TLDR it. Just for a quick note, I have USAA for auto insurance and my vehicle is a 2017 Corvette Z06 in 3LZ trim, Z07 package, and 52k miles. I own the car outright and it is titled/registered in NH. So a little while ago I was driving in heavy rain, hydroplaned, lost control, hit another car in a few places not too hard, and slid into the median. The cosmetic damage is pretty bad. A few body panels and aerodynamic parts of the car were damaged and will need to be completely replaced, as you can’t repair fiberglass/carbon fiber. I estimated myself that the cosmetic damage alone would cost $25-$30k (take that for what it is, I’m not expert lol). I had a chance to look under the car and nothing looked terrible - only thing of concern was a rear wheel that was canted slightly outwards. I towed it to a shop and they’ve found no frame damage; they’re saying it’s completely repairable. USAA got an adjuster to do an estimate on the repairs and it came out to almost $32k without having taken apart the vehicle. Their estimate also included a substantial amount of work being done on the rear suspension, if needed, which is probably the only mechanical part of the car which would’ve been damaged. Their Actual Cash Value (ACV) for the car came out to be almost $61k at the time, and since the repairs were estimated to be over 50% of the ACV, they deemed it a total loss immediately. But I knew that ACV was wrong, because no low ballers, I know what I got. In all seriousness, their report included the methodology for calculating the ACV - they compare my car to two similar cars for sale in the area. However they made a mistake and compared my car to two base model Corvettes which, brand new, went for anywhere from $30k-$45k cheaper at MSRP. They also left out very valuable features my car had as OEM equipment like the carbon ceramic brakes which go for about $16k brand new. Obviously I know I’m not getting full value for these things, I’m just saying they certainly add value. Anyway, they admitted their mistake in comparing my car to two non-comparable vehicles and redid the calculation. The new ACV is almost $87k now. Now, I know a lot of you if not all of you will say take the money and run, but this is a dream car for me - it’s spec’d perfectly and I’ve done a lot of work on this car all by myself, so it has a lot of meaning for me. I could take the owner retainment settlement option and receive $48k, repair the car myself, and pocket extra money (because I know these repairs wouldn’t cost more than $48k), but they would issue a salvage title, and I couldn’t do that because I’d still want full coverage on the car. But even with this new (and correct) ACV, USAA refuses to not call this car a total loss. Repairs would have to exceed $43k to be over 50% ACV and, by their own definition, be a total loss. Additionally, in the state of NH, generally when a vehicle is involved in a collision the damages need to exceed 75% of the ACV to be deemed a total loss. This is what USAA has recently sent me as I’m still fighting them to get the repairs done, “I can understand your point, however there was no mistake in deeming the vehicle a total loss at start, you were interested in more value in the settlement. The fact that the added value was reviewed doesn't remove it from a total loss stance. We still report it to the State as a total loss, the features and conditions that were modified as a courtesy increased the value here.” So my question is, can they do this? Still deem it a total loss even though from the start their calculation of the ACV was incorrect? I disagreed the car was a total loss from the very beginning, I wasn’t looking to get more money from the settlement, I just wanted to ACV to be correct. I’m not even looking to pocket any money from this, I just want my car fixed.

My car was totaled at the beginning of July, it was the other drivers fault and she has Fred loya. I have been completely out of a car for 3 weeks and I can’t get through to anyone. I don’t know what to do. The car isn’t worth a lot, it’s a 2005 Subaru Outback, but in my area (Colorado ) I should get at least $4,000 for it, they offered me $2,200 and after I sent a bunch of comparables over they’ve been ignoring me. I have 2 jobs and I go back to school next month, I need a car. Any advice on how to get them to pay attention to me? I’m pretty poor so getting a lawyer feels out of the question, but I’m also getting desperate. Thank you in advance

I’ve been a Geico customer for probably 15 years. I think I paid $60 a payment when I signed with them, the latest new rate almost $200. I moved recently to Queens, NY which they say boosted the cost but this increase is insane. I haven’t had a speeding ticket in decades. Any companies offer better rates!?

Is this a good comp plan for State Farm or should I look elsewhere? Hey everyone, I’ve been with State Farm for about 3 months now and just recently had my agent finally sit down and go over my compensation plan — something he’s been promising to do since I started. Here’s what it looks like (full document attached): • Base Salary: $35,000 • Auto/Fire Base Commission: 5% • Life/Health: 20% of 12-month premium • PTO: 8 days • Penalties: $50 deduction off bonus for every incomplete HH checklist Bonus opportunities: • Issue 5 life policies → +3% increase on P&C commissions • Issue 4 health applications → $250 bonus The issue is, I was also promised the chance to join the Aspirant Program, which was a huge selling point for me — but as time passes, it’s becoming clear that he probably doesn’t have much control over that, and it feels less and less likely it’ll happen. So, I’m wondering… Is this a competitive compensation plan for someone in my position? Or should I start looking elsewhere? I’ve got a background in finance and have been putting in real effort here, but I’m starting to feel like this might not be a long-term fit. Appreciate any insight from others in the industry.

My car was damaged and repaired at an ICBC accredited shop. I got my vehicle back and immediately noticed it wasn't repaired correctly. I couldn't bring it back to the first shop again because I immigrated to the USA. ICBC allowed me to bring it into a Nissan dealership in the US to have it repaired. The damage was done to one side of my vehicle- the control arm and strut were damaged. Nissan repaired BOTH sides of my control arm and struts because they said it was needed so the car would drive correctly. ICBC is now saying they'll only pay for the one side of repair where the damage was done- saying they're only responsible for repairing the damage. Is this true? I thought they'd be responsible for insuring the car was drivable again.

Hi guys, I am a foreigner who arrived to the US last year due to work. I had auto insurance for 4-5 months and wanted to change and see if I could get something cheaper. In March I finally found one who could half my monthly insurance cost which we settled the same day. The broker confirmed all details that I am a foreigner, with an international license, 7 years driving experience OUTSIDE the US. 2 weeks ago, Progressive sends me an e-mail that a automatic payment will be made in April of $1107. I had no clue what this was, as the broker told me the cost would be $106 monthly. I immediately call Progressive and they inform med that the broker most likely inserted incorrect information or misunderstood how to fill out their quoting system. They also tell me, that they send me physical mail to my address that the insurance was not eligible and the policy was updated to reflect my correct details. But I am yet to receive this mail, which according to them was sent the day after I approved the quote I was sent. What concerns me a lot… - Why did Progressive not send anything in regards to this change? - only my State ID was given to the broker and as I understand with my prior insurance company, they require my international- and foreign driver’s license to insure me - can they update it without me confirming/agreeing to this change? I have called and mailed the broker which is yet to answer and pending their response. What do you do, in this case? Location: North Carolina

Just a rant from your friendly neighborhood pet insurance claim adjuster: Disclaimer: I am not speaking for the company I work for or the brand. Some of these things are not universal to all insurance companies, so you should read your policy documents and not take my word as gospel. I’m trying to help ALL of us have a better experience here. *bow* Welcome to my Ted talk. Sorry for any typos… I’m human.. contrary to popular belief. For starters….Please. For the love of god. Attach your invoices, and make sure they are itemized and paid in full. No- the credit card receipt doesn’t count. We need itemized invoices. No estimates don’t work either. PAID IN FULL, ITEMIZED INVOICES. Also- while we’re on the topic of invoices… be sure that invoice says the pet name, hospital/store/pharmacy name and is for the actual pet on your policy. If your pets name changed- for the love of god, notify us. My crystal ball quit working a longgg time ago. No a random CVS/walgreens/costco receipt doesn’t work. It needs to have the med name on it if it’s for a medication. Do you think your car insurance would just take some random Walmart invoice that said “ASJEUDH875” and trust your word that it’s for the car? boAbsolutely not. Do not expect me to accept it either. Stop asking if you should appeal a decision and just do it. You are within your legal right to appeal a claim decision if you do not agree with the outcome! This does NOT mean it will be automatically overturned in your favor. Claims adjusters are humans too and we can make mistakes or misunderstand or misinterpret something! A lot of us are previous vet techs, assistants, etc. but some of us are not and may not fully understand disease processes without the medical records being abundantly clear. Also- some of these vets medical records ABSOLUTELY SUCK and we are rarely (emphasis on RARELY) able to get in touch with drs to get clarification. and when we do?! They are rude as hell and want nothing to do with us. You know how it’s nearly impossible for you to speak with your own vet and you pay them? ….yeah they absolutely won’t talk to us. Also- be nice in your appeal letters. I don’t need to have you threaten sicking your lawyer on me. And honestly- we make fun of you behind the scenes when you act like an animal and try to use big words that you don’t understand. Again- we are human. Give us the opportunity to either make it right or to explain to you why we made the decision that we did. Let’s allllll act like rational, civilized adults here. And guess what?!! If you still think we’re wrong- there’s second level appeals and sometimes even third level. Most companies also offer an independent review after so many appeals! So just chill the hell out and let’s work through it together. Don’t get me started on the old school vets who still have handwritten records and invoices…. Speaking As a former vet tech, it should be illegal. If you have a vet who still hand writes their records and invoices… it’s time to find a vet that lives in this century. You really think your pet is getting the latest and greatest care when their DOCTOR can’t (or can’t be bothered to) figure out a computer? Let that sink in… Do not make us ask for records when you file your first claim. Just send in the required amount per your policy (typically 12-24 months of previous records. Read your policy). It slows the entire process down, we get frustrated, it wastes our time (and your time) and everyone involved is sad that the claim can’t be closed. Then you- the insured- throws a massive fit. Just do what’s required of you in the first place. Let me be so crystal clear on this. I WANT TO CLOSE YOUR CLAIM. I want so badly for your claim to be closed quickly and quietly. My production at work is measured in the number of claims I CLOSE. I do not get credit for the ones that get sent for records. I do not get credit for the ones I have to wait for payment information. I do not get credit for the ones that are not workable yet. Also- in that same vein. I WANT TO COVER YOUR CLAIMS. I want to pay you out money. In fact- we are trained to look for ways to pay you. It’s more work for me to deny your claim than it is to cover your claim. There is paperwork and explanations and it’s a whole process to deny something. I am lazy AF. I don’t want to do all of that if I don’t have to. However- when an insured doesn’t understand how their policy works and then opens a policy for their dog that’s had raging allergies its entire life and then files a claim for the same allergy medication the pets been on forever… come on people… HELP US HELP YOU. Edit: One more thing to add! If you have the ability to put what the claim is for when you file it (ex: ear infection, vomiting, ate a sock, hit by a car) it’s so much easier and quicker for us! I am usually able to process claims by the description as long as the invoice seems to match up with the claim description. If all you put is “see invoice” or “illness” then I have to request records to confirm the condition and that takes up so much time. Give us the information up front! Again- help me help you! ❤️ I’m sure there is more that I could go on and on about. But honestly this is long enough at this point. Who knows… maybe I’ll add more at some point. What do I want you to take away from this? Help us help you. We want to help you. We wouldn’t ask for something if it wasn’t important. And we are human beings too. Please be kind. Small favor: please keep attaching pictures of your pets when you submit claims!!! We share them amongst ourselves and it really reminds us why we do what we do! It’s nice to put a furry face to the names we are helping! And… who doesn’t love staring at cute ass animals all day…. Feel free to ask questions! I’ll try to answer. Don’t get nasty- I won’t entertain you if you act like an ass.

My car is a **1989 Honda Civic RT4WD Standard** — these are practically unheard of now. I know insurance companies won’t pay for uninsured upgrades, but I recently spent **over $8k** on paint and body work to restore it to factory condition. The paint, trim, wheels, and tires are perfect. Unfortunately, we had a hailstorm while I wasn’t home, and the car got **hammered**. The insurance company is using comps from the much less desirable **2WD automatic** version, which sells for around $5k. I can’t even find a standard RT4WD for sale, but the closest condition autos I can find go for close to **$10k**. Similar Japanese “Beagle” versions are also around $10k. The insurance company says they can only use **dealership** listings (not private party), and since neither I nor the adjuster can find a dealer listing for my model, they’ve offered me **$4k**. I know it’s worth much more. I’m looking to get a **3rd-party valuation** but don’t know where to start. Has anyone here actually used a company for this and can share their experience? I can Google, but I’d prefer first-hand recommendations. Once this is resolved, I plan to move the car to **Hagerty** since they seem to handle collector/older car valuations much better.