Here is my scenario: My mother owns a car that she would like to have my daughter drive for school high school. The car had been parked and was on a non-op status, and the car insurance was canceled. The car has been re-registered and is ready to go once we have the insurance question settled. My mother does not drive anymore and did not renew her drivers license the last time it came up for renewal. We called the insurance company to reactivate her policy, Direct Insurance, and were told that she cannot get a policy because she does not have a valid drivers license. After doing some research, I think these are my options, and I want to get some feedback: 1. Find a company that will write a policy where the owner of the vehicle is not licensed. Does anyone know of a company that does this? 2. My mother has a living trust that many of her assets are in, but not her car. Would it make sense to transfer the car into the trust, or am I still faced with exact the same problem? The final solution is for me to simply buy my mother‘s car. We are both a little hesitant to do this because my brother also drives it on occasion and she wants to make sure that it is still available for him. If I purchased it, I would still make sure it is available to him, but now I would need to make sure that my brother was on the insurance as an occasional driver. I suspect this will end up being the simplest course of action, but I wanted to make sure that there wasn’t something else I am overlooking. TIA! Edit: the car would be insured in California.

Hello! I am struggling to find a good plan for my older cat. I am moving out for college and my apartment requires my cat has insurance. My family never considered pet insurance for her, so it's quite a struggle. Im an undergrad and I love my cat a lot, I grew up with her. She's the cutest torbie short hair with a beautiful coat. But she is 12 years old, with quite a few preexisting conditions. She has arthritis issues and a pretty bad knee, a partially amputated tail from cysts, and has had teeth issues as well. Honestly, considering her pre-existing conditions, I know I will not get much from insurance besides maybe small coverage for check-ups. Lemonade will not let me file for her because of her age. If anyone has recommendations, I am considering a cheaper policy. I am looking into FIGO, but obviously, I have seen bad reviews for every company so I am pretty stuck on what to do.

Hello, I was involved in an accident and I’m currently waiting to be reimbursed by the insurance of the person who hit my car (the 3p insurance). However their policy limit doesn’t cover how much my car is worth. I am trying to retain the car as salvaged because it is my only source of transportation. The 3p insurance is sending the lienholder $15,000 (customer’s policy limit) but the remaining balance is mine to cover ($6,380). However my lienholder says they won’t send the letter of guarantee to the insurance until the remaining balance is covered ($6,380) meaning the 3p insurance cannot send the $15,000. I have gap insurance and I expected them to cover the remaining balance but they said they won’t pay until the $15,000 is sent from the 3p insurance and they see the letter of guarantee. Does anyone know if there is a workaround where I keep the vehicle having to pay ($6,380) out of pocket? Please let me know. Thanks!

TL;DR: Be nice and…get yo money?? I made a post a few days ago about how I was seeking compensation for the stress caused my the mishandling and lying committed by the at fault drivers insurance. This was my first car accident, so I’ve never dealt with the claims side of insurance. I explained how it’s my understanding they were in violation of the Unfair Claims Settlement Practices Act and how when I finally got ahold of the other insurances adjuster, he made multiple false statements (which his supervisor confirmed were untrue statements). For many reasons told and untold, this was stressful. I made a post explaining how I was seeking compensation for the stress caused by the mishandling of this claim and asked what the chances were that I’d get compensation. I came here seeking genuine answers and instead I received belittling comments, essentially saying “you will receive nothing you dumb fuck.” Well…I just received an email today from the insurance agreeing to pay exactly the amount I asked for. While I get things take time, not hearing a single word from the other insurance for almost two months when their own policy says they reply within one business day, and making multiple unnecessary false statements is not right. Making belittling comments to someone is also not right. My point is, be nicer. Don’t join a subreddit where people are seeking genuine answers if you can’t give them, or simply don’t comment. AND, if an insurance company got you feeling stressed, take a chance. It might literally pay off.

My wife was driving and was hit in the rear driver panel and part of the rear tire in a hit and run. The car was drivable so it was not towed. The impact caused the tire to toe out however. For context, I had the specific tire that was hit replaced maybe two months ago. That being said, BOTH rear tires were worn down to bald and wire showing in some areas. Progressive has deemed that only the drivers side tire is eligible for coverage because it caused sidewall damage and that the tires are bald because it is a performance vehicle. They are also saying that a single tire being improperly aligned/toed would not cause any additional wear to the other tires. Do I have any options as far as getting them to cover the passenger tire? Is there a magic phrase or wording I need to use? I understand that a new tire is only around $250 to mount and balance but I feel like this is something the insurance should cover given the circumstances.

My Honda CRV 2018 , 48k mileage was rear ended. Bumper damage and tail gate damage. Adjuster estimates says 3.5 K , the auto body shop says repair cost of 14.5 K and insurance company wants to do total loss and settlement of 21k. The shop **initially quoted $3,327.12**, but **after a deeper inspection**, the full cost is now estimated at **$14,412.00**. * This includes **parts ($7,059)**, **labor (body, paint, mechanical)**, **paint supplies**, **miscellaneous charges**, and **sales + county taxes**. # 🧾 What Was Added That Drove Up Cost? Here are some **major cost drivers** from the supplement: 1. **Rear Floor Pan Replacement**: * Part: $1,408.27 * Labor: 29 hours (!!!) * Paint: 2.5 hours 🔥 This is a **huge contributor**. Frame/floor pan replacement is structural and complex. 2. **Lift Gate Replacement**: * Part: $1,701.68 * Paint + labor included 🚨 Signals **major rear-end impact** 3. **Rear Body Panel**: * Part: $877.58 * Requires alignment and seam sealing 4. **Multiple panel repairs, refinishing, seam sealing, underbody work** 5. **Parts & Hardware**: * Several **aftermarket parts** were used to reduce cost (bumper cover, impact bar, moldings) * OEM parts were selectively used (e.g., optional OEM upper molding for $428.48) I am surprised with the high estimate. should I accept total loss and take 21K? anyway to negotiate higher. I was really not set for this time for another car purchase. My daughter is ready for college this fall was busy to manage her finance for college. should I try second opinion from another mechanic.

I’m in Illinois and have a pickup truck and a minivan. I also rent a house from my in-laws. I have State Farm for my policies and they have been going up and up and up the last few years. My coverages are standard and I have no claims or tickets on record.

Thinking about moving my primary residence into a trust. However, I was grandfathered into a state farm home insurance very affordable for my location and I doubt I’ll be able to get my home insured since it’s now high fire risk since a map redraw. I am also thinking about moving my home under a trust. Does changing benefiacury of a home insurance incur a risk of losing my current policy (like separate underwriting is needed?)

Location: Seattle, Washington Hi everyone, I’m looking for advice or similar experiences. A few weeks ago, a driver crashed into our house. The impact broke our front door, left insulation exposed, and traumatized my family. My wife witnessed the crash, screamed in panic, and we have video with audio capturing her emotional reaction. Since then, she’s been unable to sleep, cries at loud noises, and constantly fears it could happen again. Our 8-month-old baby was also in the house. While some say “babies don’t remember,” there’s real research showing even infants can be affected by trauma — especially when their caregiver is distressed. We had to cancel a planned international trip in September and also dealt with harassment from a contractor who was supposed to do repairs, adding even more stress. We submitted: • The video showing my wife’s panic • Travel cancellation documents • Research on trauma in infants Despite all of this, Safeco (the driver’s insurer) is only offering $500 for emotional distress. They say we haven’t “proven” our case — even though the trauma is documented and undeniable., no real explanation. Has anyone dealt with Safeco before in a similar situation? Is $500 a typical offer for something like this? What would you consider a fair amount based on the circumstances? Thanks in advance — this situation has been overwhelming for our family, and any insight or shared experience would mean a lot. I used ChatGPT to explain this situation here.

Had my payment coming up of $519 ( 2 payments of 259, lumped together) I instacart for my income and it had become too hot recently to do as much as normal. I let geico know i could pay some not the full amount due, representative told me pay what I can.. thinking it was notated on my acct and id be ok.. (8 years of coverage) I continued to work although I started training at the job I finally got hired for, taking away time to instacart.. long story short I saw Geico canceled me on 7/21, I found out a few days ago because I don’t check emails often. They usually text me. Im in NY, To reinstate I need to pay off my balance 389 + 300 for new coverage.. I don’t get paid until the 15th.. anything I can do? what do I need to be concerned about? any penalties.. etc. Really thought the representative did me a solid, why not say it would still cancel?!