So I got hired onto State Farm in the Aspirant Program since I already have experience selling life insurance. It all sounded great when they were hiring me. But….. I am a week into this and I am getting zero direction and am told to just look into the book and see if there is any way to resell life insurance to any clients already with life insurance. Does anyone have any experience in this program. Because as of now I am a little confused on what this program actually is. It seems more like I got hired to be a sales guy for the agent instead of actually striving to be an agent.

We were rear ended by an uninsured driver. Had to file with our provider which is USAA. Today we got the repair estimate and the car is being deemed a total loss. All it needs is a new rear bumper and an exhaust. Repairs after our deductible are $700ish. Looks like the payment to us is $280. We're freaking out a bit. His car is older. It's a 2010 Foed Escape with 150k miles. We knew it wouldn't be worth much but $280? After searching around in our area, they are going for around $3k. Is there anyway for us to keep it and fix it ourselves? My husband is a mechanic and can get all this fixed for less than $700 easily is there anyway to do this without getting a salvaged title? If not, what are our options with insurance coverage moving forward? We cannot afford to buy another car right now.

I managed two older buildings one built in 1950 and one built in 1900. The company's own them for 13 years and never had a insurance claim. Country financial, which is owned by Farmers I believe, did a risk analysis is dropping 45% of their older homes Are there any companies out there that are easier to cover older rental properties with older rust but still in good condition?

Thinking about moving my primary residence into a trust. However, I was grandfathered into a state farm home insurance very affordable for my location and I doubt I’ll be able to get my home insured since it’s now high fire risk since a map redraw. I am also thinking about moving my home under a trust. Does changing benefiacury of a home insurance incur a risk of losing my current policy (like separate underwriting is needed?)

Here is my scenario: My mother owns a car that she would like to have my daughter drive for school high school. The car had been parked and was on a non-op status, and the car insurance was canceled. The car has been re-registered and is ready to go once we have the insurance question settled. My mother does not drive anymore and did not renew her drivers license the last time it came up for renewal. We called the insurance company to reactivate her policy, Direct Insurance, and were told that she cannot get a policy because she does not have a valid drivers license. After doing some research, I think these are my options, and I want to get some feedback: 1. Find a company that will write a policy where the owner of the vehicle is not licensed. Does anyone know of a company that does this? 2. My mother has a living trust that many of her assets are in, but not her car. Would it make sense to transfer the car into the trust, or am I still faced with exact the same problem? The final solution is for me to simply buy my mother‘s car. We are both a little hesitant to do this because my brother also drives it on occasion and she wants to make sure that it is still available for him. If I purchased it, I would still make sure it is available to him, but now I would need to make sure that my brother was on the insurance as an occasional driver. I suspect this will end up being the simplest course of action, but I wanted to make sure that there wasn’t something else I am overlooking. TIA! Edit: the car would be insured in California.

I've posted about my claim before. Insurance company low balled me on the settlement for my stolen car. Offered me 23k total I didn't agree, they didn't want to negotiate and told me to invoke appraisal clause. They rep calls we over a week later and told me good news their appraiser came up with 26k and something. Told me I don't have to get an appraiser anymore. Sounded good to me. Next day I get a call, they made a mistake and weren't supposed to tell me that amount since that's the amount their appraiser came up with for when I actually invoke the appraisal clause. I'm confused so I have two questions: Can they legally backtrack like that after they already told me I didn't have to get an appraiser and the amount they were at? And also, technically if I get an appraiser he or she should be able to get me more than their estimate right?

I’m in Illinois and have a pickup truck and a minivan. I also rent a house from my in-laws. I have State Farm for my policies and they have been going up and up and up the last few years. My coverages are standard and I have no claims or tickets on record.

My Honda CRV 2018 , 48k mileage was rear ended. Bumper damage and tail gate damage. Adjuster estimates says 3.5 K , the auto body shop says repair cost of 14.5 K and insurance company wants to do total loss and settlement of 21k. The shop **initially quoted $3,327.12**, but **after a deeper inspection**, the full cost is now estimated at **$14,412.00**. * This includes **parts ($7,059)**, **labor (body, paint, mechanical)**, **paint supplies**, **miscellaneous charges**, and **sales + county taxes**. # 🧾 What Was Added That Drove Up Cost? Here are some **major cost drivers** from the supplement: 1. **Rear Floor Pan Replacement**: * Part: $1,408.27 * Labor: 29 hours (!!!) * Paint: 2.5 hours 🔥 This is a **huge contributor**. Frame/floor pan replacement is structural and complex. 2. **Lift Gate Replacement**: * Part: $1,701.68 * Paint + labor included 🚨 Signals **major rear-end impact** 3. **Rear Body Panel**: * Part: $877.58 * Requires alignment and seam sealing 4. **Multiple panel repairs, refinishing, seam sealing, underbody work** 5. **Parts & Hardware**: * Several **aftermarket parts** were used to reduce cost (bumper cover, impact bar, moldings) * OEM parts were selectively used (e.g., optional OEM upper molding for $428.48) I am surprised with the high estimate. should I accept total loss and take 21K? anyway to negotiate higher. I was really not set for this time for another car purchase. My daughter is ready for college this fall was busy to manage her finance for college. should I try second opinion from another mechanic.

Hey yall I was involved in a rear ending accident last week in Texas and when I called progressive (the information I was given by the person who hit me) they informed me that his policy has not been active for some time. I have now contacted my insurance and informed them of all of this and they are looking into it. Just curious if anybody has ever seen this or seen a fake insurance card? I tried googled and can’t find anything of this sort! It looks very legit. I imagine he will also be in trouble with the police in some way for giving false insurance to them. He already had 2 citations for having expired plates and hitting me. The cop informed me his insurance was good when he gave me the write up but I assume he didnt check as they said it’s not active. It was written up for 3 months from 7/2025-10/2025 which progressive says they do not even have policies for that short of a time. Seeking any advice for anybody who has been through this! I’m assuming I will end up having to file with my uninsured motorist.

Bear with me as I’m a bit new to car insurance renewals, (this is my first car)! 😭 I have Geico So my renewal date is this month and it’s stated in email that the amount due is $353… my regularly scheduled amount paid a month is $240. I wasn’t sure if the $353 was just a renewal fee for now and after paying I would go back to paying $240 OR if the $353 was my new monthly payment. I didn’t want to wait and find out so I went to my Geico app and had a chat with a representative. I asked and was told: “I really appreciate your patience here! Okay, so the reason for the double payment you are seeing is because, although this plan does not require autopay, it does require you to be paid ahead. Since you were no longer enrolled into autopay your payment planned switch over to this plan at your renewal. If you were to decide to reenroll; your payments would all, be $237.28 monthly. But you'd need to make the payment of $237.28 on or before August 19th to be eligible. Once you do, you'll have the option to enroll and switch back over to the regular monthly plan.” This confused me because in email it says I owe $353 so I feel obligated to pay that and not ignore it. To confirm I asked them to clarify and was told to do exactly that. Ignore it and it will adjust. I responded: No problem. So sorry but l'm a bit confused because it says I owe $353 by the 19th... so do you mean I pay that and it goes down to $237? Or just ignore that and pay $237 on or before the 19th? they responded: “Correct, that is going to show this way since you're on the payment plan that requires you to be billed ahead. You pay the $237 and once you do, the billing will adjust when you enroll back into autopay and switch over to the regular monthly plan. Yep, you got it! Ignore that and it will adjust automatically once you enroll again.” I went ahead and enrolled in auto pay and it adjusted my payments to $260 after paying the $353…I’m guessing it’s because I have to pay the $237 first and then enroll in autopay? I don’t know, I’m so confused… I’m thinking of calling instead of doing an online chat just to protect myself from the madness. It doesn’t feel right because it feels like I’m ignoring my bill especially since I didn’t even know I’d be paying a little less than my usual unless I spoke to a representative. Feels like a cheat code in a sense lol… Lastly, I JUST realized that it was showing me the $260 as an updated payment (after the $353) the entire time on the email. I was just so in a rush. I’m all over the place, sorry lol… but that doesn’t change what the representative said so I’m still stumped.