Hi, I cancelled my policy with Allstate on July 29th after paying my July 1st bill with my next bill date being August 1st. Cancelled my renters and auto in one swoop through the online chat, though next day I realized they hadn't cancelled my auto. Only my renters, I contacted them again. They backlogged the effective date for the auto to the 29th as the renters was. I already thought they were trying to get an extra payment out of me there, hoping that I wouldn't catch it... The reps on chat assured me that I wouldn't owe my next payment on the 1st since I cancelled my policy previous to the payment date. The next day I checked to ensure the auto cancellation went through and it did show effective so I went ahead and turned off auto-pay. Next day there is a charge on my account for $302. Today I had the time to call so I called Allstate. First rep asked me some questions and then put me on hold for 40 minutes, only for another rep to answer. Second rep told me that my bill has been sent to collections and gave me the number to call. I called collections and they haven't received anything due for me.... I called Allstate again.. Last rep told me that the extra $302 was due to the cancellation of auto-pay on my already cancelled policy.. Also stating that technically my due date without auto-pay would've been on the 18th of each month, which she said if i hasn't have turned off auto-pay they would've owed me money. This is genuinely not making any sense to me and feels like a gigantic scam. None of the reps at Allstate are willing to waive my balance due to an incorrect charge. Do I just wait for the bill to hit collections and then dispute it? What can I do about this? I'm also infuriated that I spent in total two hours on the phone for this.. lots of misinformation all around and no resolution.

I noticed on my renewal for my auto policy with Progressive that I was listed in tier 3M. Google told me this is a high risk tier, but I have been driving for many years, have a clean driving record, and no claims. I am, based on my driving record and insurance history, a low risk driver. Is this a high risk tier? Does anyone know how these tiers are assigned? If I am incorrectly assigned to the wrong tier, how do I fix that?

Car Came In Contact With Pedestrian Hello All, I would just like some community input. My mother a few days ago was driving her car in Queens, NYC, she was going about 18mph, when a pedestrian backed into traffic and came in contact with her car and was taken away by Ambulance, No damage to my mother's car and she was not injured. NYPD came and took a report and my mother's insurance. Other party literally hired an "Ambulance chaser" the next day. In the NYPD report they state what the pedestrian said, "pedestrian pulled over her car at body shop to be looked at, she stated she opened the hood and a splash of water spewed out and startled her and she jumped backwards" (NYPD did not witness the accident and I am aware the police report does not determine fault in accidents just criminal liability, but the report is used as a tool). My mother didn't have a dash cam (lesson learned), my mother also says that someone saw a security camera footage of thr incident. I just wanna know how screwed is my family since my mom has her car and house to worry about and now this? *Note* My mother works for the USPS and was on the clock at the time, she just drives her car to a central location on her route and then walsk her route. I already knew State Farm would deny the claim cause my mother was on the clock. They advised the other party to file a tort claim with the USPS. *Note, the USPS is not as transparent with its employees or customers. So I have very little faith in how this process will be handled since my mother was working at the time. Thank you all for your input.

Hi. So I purchased a new car and am within a year of paying it off (I’m paying it off ahead of schedule) when I was at the dealership it was required that I had full coverage until the car was paid off. Now my question is, what could Honda do if I change my insurance company (I’m currently with the useless all state) and change my plan to minimum coverage?

I have every option that was offered with Aflac through my job. What type of things can you claim? I feel like they are so vague on this. I’m trying to get money back for things if I am able. I haven’t had any SERIOUS hospital stays or such. But I know you can claim yearly for annual physical, also for pap smear under cancer screening to get money back. Not trying to scam or anything but it seems that unless I am dying or stay in the hospital then these policies don’t pay anything. Anyone know the ins and outs? Because at this point I’m just paying a lot to have a policy.

Location: Florida So I'm frustrated with Progressive because they identified a person who was staying in my home temporarily and added them to my policy. This person has never driving or touched either of the cars on my policy. They supposedly sent out a mail notice, which I could not find physically or even in my email, where I'm signed up for Informed Delivery and would be able to see any envelope that said it's from Progressive. I looked through my email to see the notices dated months ago stating the persons name and that if I do not contact Progresive by January 16 that they would add them to my policy. I looked though the details of my policy today and that's when I found that they are listed as a driver. So I've been paying for this person to be on my insurance for the past three months. I have to wait until Monday to speak with underwriting to figure out what happened and what to do. My question is whether this practice is even legal in the state of Florida. From what I've seen, a lack of response of a notice does not indicate consent. My explicit consent was not obtained to make changes to my policy. I have not even talked to or seen the person added for months before the changes were completed.

My daughter is 28 yo. She just bought a 2023 Subaru cross Trek. She was on our auto insurance since she started driving, although she moved about 5 years ago. When she bought the car the insurance company called and told her she had to get her own policy. We have mercury insurance. They gave her a quote for about $4000 per year. She has had a couple accidents. Wondering if anyone can give a few companies that are cheaper. She has been teaching for 5 years, so, educator discount? She lives in 90031 zip. Thank you.

Hi all, I'm trying to figure out the best way to proceed with insurance as my policies are set to renew in about three weeks. I have Allstate for both auto and home insurance, and I get a $300 discount on both the auto and home premiums as a result. My home insurance for this coming year (12 month rate) is set to be $2270 - when I looked online and talked to a couple of agencies, the lowest I got was \~$2800 with some of those quotes going well into 3k and even 4k. I'm not sure why my home insurance rate with Allstate is so good comparatively to other agencies, though the discount section does mention responsible payments (haven't missed any mortgage payments) contributing to a $600 bonus, and a loyalty bonus of $250. On the other hand, my auto insurance rates are way higher than anything I'm being quoted on. My rate for the next 6 months of auto insurance is $1262 for a 2021 Subaru Forester. As far as classification goes, I'm 26, male, and married. I've had a single accident just under 5 years ago (late 2020 - minor bump to the car in front of me, and I was the at fault driver). Upon doing quotes with other agencies using the exact same deductibles/coverage amounts, I got anywhere from $770 (from a local independent agent) to just under $1000. I'm trying to determine if it's worth swapping to another agency for cheaper car insurance, but I'd lose my bundle discount and the convenience of handling all of my insurance from one place, with one agent. Would y'all say it would be better to stick with Allstate, or should I try and pursue a better auto policy?

My health insurance company won’t use the word “covered.” They only use the word “consider,” even when the category is “benefits and coverage.” One of their agents told me they can’t use the word “cover.” For example, in a recent communication they said, "Home health care must be approved in advance, (pre-authorization), and is limited to 90 visits per plan year. Once approved, services provided by an In-Network PPO provider will be considered at 100 percent of the allowable charge with no co-pay. “ This statement doesn’t make any sense. They said it has been “approved.” What is left to “consider?”

Is there a way to dispute your cars value ? Insurance gave me a value of $12,000(I think that’s HIGH) for my 17’ Chevy Cruze with close to 180,000 miles on it + body damage . I was hit by usps and the damage is roughly $6,000-6,500 so we tried to get usps to pay for the damage but they won’t exceed $5,400 because my cars not worth more than that to them (which I agree) I’ve personally been saying since I got the repair estimate costs that it’s totaled. Kellybluebook value is about $5,300, a car dealership gave me $6,000 for the value so HOW is insurance $6,000 more than the 3 of those values. If usps won’t even give me the amount of damage shouldn’t my Isnurance reconsider their value ?