I’m looking for employment in the financial sector and I got on a zoom call with a financial services company, companies name is Axium. They’re an independent broker using Primerica as their custodian. He kind of explained they’re like a marketplace for financial products now . 401(k)s, annuities, mutual funds, even rocket mortgage. As well as life insurance. But I have concerns because I’m a child of the 90s and I remember Primerica having a bad rap. Seems like they don’t have the same practices they used to. But I’m wondering if it’s worth it to take this employment, and if I’m just making something out of nothing. Does anyone have firsthand experience with Primerica as a client or employee?

My car is a **1989 Honda Civic RT4WD Standard** — these are practically unheard of now. I know insurance companies won’t pay for uninsured upgrades, but I recently spent **over $8k** on paint and body work to restore it to factory condition. The paint, trim, wheels, and tires are perfect. Unfortunately, we had a hailstorm while I wasn’t home, and the car got **hammered**. The insurance company is using comps from the much less desirable **2WD automatic** version, which sells for around $5k. I can’t even find a standard RT4WD for sale, but the closest condition autos I can find go for close to **$10k**. Similar Japanese “Beagle” versions are also around $10k. The insurance company says they can only use **dealership** listings (not private party), and since neither I nor the adjuster can find a dealer listing for my model, they’ve offered me **$4k**. I know it’s worth much more. I’m looking to get a **3rd-party valuation** but don’t know where to start. Has anyone here actually used a company for this and can share their experience? I can Google, but I’d prefer first-hand recommendations. Once this is resolved, I plan to move the car to **Hagerty** since they seem to handle collector/older car valuations much better.

Hello, I have an HSA with Optum Bank that I am transferring to another institution. A couple of weeks ago, I had a phone call with Optum where they had told me to liquidate my investments before initiating the transfer. Right after we hung up the phone, I liquidated all my investments and initiated the transfer with the other institution (Fidelity). I sold X amount of shares of VFIAX at share price of $565.06. A few days after liquidating everything, there was a purchase of shares on my account using my entire account balance, purchasing shares of VFIAX at a share price $567.88. It turns out that my account had a flag named HSA auto-transfer enabled, which is the cause of this. VFIAX has dropped a significant amount since this purchase was made. As of now, it is priced at $530 per share, which will drop even lower today. I am upset because the representative from Optum did NOT inform me that auto-invest was enabled, and my entire portfolio is down about 7% due to this. I just spoke with a supervisor at Optum to see if they can reverse this transaction and they said there is nothing they can do. The only thing I can do from this point is to disable auto-invest and liquidate all my shares for a loss. Is there anything I can do about this? I'm upset that I have to take a loss due to the phone rep not telling me to disable this feature. It's also caused delay on the transfer process to Fidelity.

My son damaged his car leaving a parking lot. He didn’t tell us for a few weeks (he parks with the passenger side near the garage wall so we never see that side) and can’t remember the address because he was lost in a scary part of town. He definitely drove over something because the frame behind the front passenger wheel well is bent. Geico wants the address in case there is property damage. I’m pretty sure it was an abandoned lot and nobody cares about a piece of cement. I don’t even know what to say to them. I’ve explained the situation but they keep wanting an address. It’s a 2 year old financed car that we bought brand new and have been with Geico for 10 years and have maybe 2 claims. This is my son’s first claim and he’s got no traffic violations or accidents but this. He’s 25.

I had an ER visit back in Dec 2024 and I got a bill yesterday for 1000$. On my insurance app (MI Medicaid) it says I owe 0$ and the claim was denied but I still got a bill. Am I responsible to pay this bill still? I submitted a claim with my insurance because it was an emergency and at night no urgent cares were open. It’s Sunday so nothing is open and nobody else I can talk to right now. What should I do?

I made a claim via triple a and they stated I was at fault for the following: Tire debris was flowing through various freeway lanes. It was not safe for me to merge on to the lane to my left because it was flooded, and to my right there were other vehicles that would not have permitted me to merge in time to avoid the popped tire debris. I stayed in the lane I was an and the debris struck my vehicle, causing damage to the front bumper and fender. They stated I am at fault because I “struck the debris and could have avoided it.” Is there anything I can quote from their comprehensive coverage to not be labeled as at fault? Or am I at fault?

We bought our home just outside the Twin Cities area in mid last year, and at the time our Travelers homeowners insurance premium was around **$1,680/year**. This year, our renewal came in at **over $3,300**. After some back and forth, I changed the deductible to match last year’s, but the total was still around **$2,800**. I contacted a few other insurance companies, and their quotes were all in the same \~$3k range. I was told that **all homeowners insurance carriers in MN increased rates significantly this past year**. Has anyone else experienced this? * Do you know *why* rates jumped so much in Minnesota? * Are there any strategies to cut this cost beyond just raising the deductible? Any insight would be appreciated. As a note, there were several homes in our area that had their roofs replaced about 2-3 years ago, because of hail damage or something like that, I would have imagined that it would have caused the price hike last year, not this.

My wife was driving and was hit in the rear driver panel and part of the rear tire in a hit and run. The car was drivable so it was not towed. The impact caused the tire to toe out however. For context, I had the specific tire that was hit replaced maybe two months ago. That being said, BOTH rear tires were worn down to bald and wire showing in some areas. Progressive has deemed that only the drivers side tire is eligible for coverage because it caused sidewall damage and that the tires are bald because it is a performance vehicle. They are also saying that a single tire being improperly aligned/toed would not cause any additional wear to the other tires. Do I have any options as far as getting them to cover the passenger tire? Is there a magic phrase or wording I need to use? I understand that a new tire is only around $250 to mount and balance but I feel like this is something the insurance should cover given the circumstances.

Got into a car accident last year (rear-ended). Sent a demand letter to Farmers Insurance asking for: * **$4,523** in gross medical expenses (I attached the detailed reports/receipts for them) * **$33,000** for pain and suffering * **$6,295** for diminished value (they said this will be handled separately) Yesterday, they offered **$7,823** for my bodily injury claim. Seems like they’re barely covering my medical bills and throwing in a small amount for pain and suffering (10% of what I requested). Should I counter? If so, should I slightly lower my initial demand (say $25K for pain and suffering) to show I’m negotiating in good faith, or should I stay firm on the original amount? Has anyone been through this process without an attorney and successfully negotiated a higher payout? Btw, when my vehicle was in the shop, I gave the shop the insurance's contact info and the insurance paid the shop. Looking for advice on next steps before I respond. Any input is appreciated!

So a uhaul caused a 4 car accident and drove away police wont do shit cause its the bay area and uhaul wont do shit cause its uhaul they said 15k divided by the 4 cars and that can take 6 to 8 months.....my car is 50k and totaled 90 percent sure. my collision deduct is 1000 and comp 500. How much will that cover for a 2025 model 3 awd quicksilver with 100 miles on it at the time of the accident. my tesla appt aint till 3/31 accident was on 2/25.....what do i do sue uhaul? will tesla insurance go after uhaul sucks cause i predicted all of this shit service and policies